Tiny Pose-able Doll

One of my daughters asked for tiny dolls for her birthday. She's been making a tiny dollhouse out of odds and ends. I looked around and couldn't find any the size she wanted in the stores nearby. So, I decided I would try to make one for her. 

And it turned out cuter than I imagined. I used pipe cleaner to make her pose-able, and also to stuff her at the same time.
I'm working on a photo tutorial for these dolls, as well as clothes. I hope you have as much fun with these as I have. 

These are some of the early prototypes. The one on the right has a head that turns.
The pattern for that one will be coming in the future.

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Tiny Pose-able Doll

Written pattern copyright Kimberly Saunders 2015

Please do not reprint or repost this pattern, but please do link to this page to share with others.

Do not sell or reproduce this written pattern. If you sell anything made from this pattern,

please give credit to me  for the design and include a link to either the free pattern or my blog.

Thank you!

Materials:

Size 10 crochet thread- about 22 feet
Size 10 (1.3mm) crochet hook
12" pipe cleaner
Cotton ball
Old scissors or wire cutters
Flat nose pliers
Needle (I use a cross-stitch needle)
Something small to use for stitch markers, (optional)
Bulky weight yarn (I used Lion Brand Yarns Hometown USA for this doll)
Glue, or needle and thread to match yarn

Gauge: First 3 rows = about 5/8"

Finished size: 2" to 2 1/4" tall

Notes:
You want the stitches to be tight and close together.
Doll is crocheted in rounds without joining.
If needed, use a small thread, or something else to mark the beginnings of the rounds.

Directions for Invisible Decrease (invdec):
Insert hook under the front loop of next sc, insert hook under the front loop of next sc, yarn over, and draw through 2 loops on hook, yarn over, and draw through 2 loops on hook.

Doll

Head
1: In magic ring, ch 1 and pull tight, 6 sc in ring, pull ring closed. -6 sc-
2: 2 sc in each sc around. -12 sc-
3: (Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) 6x. -18 sc-
4 - 6: Sc in each sc around. -18 sc_
7: (Sc in next sc, invdec over next 2 sc) 3x. -12 sc-  Stuff head firmly, but don't overstuff.
8: (Invdec over next 2 sc) 6x. -6 sc- Add more cotton if necessary.

Neck
9: Sc in the front loop of each sc. -6 sc-

Torso
10: (Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) 2x. -10 sc-
11 - 15: Sc in each sc around. -10 sc-

First Leg
16: Sc in each of the next 5 sc, skip next 5 sc, they will be used for the second leg. -5 sc-
17 - 27: Sc in each sc around. -5 sc-
Fasten off leaving a 4" tail.

Second Leg
16: Join with sc into first skipped sc on round 15, sc in each of next 4 sc. The next sc will go into the first sc made on this round. -5 sc-
17 - 27: Sc in each sc around. -5 sc-
Fasten off leaving a 4" tail.

Arms (Make 2)
1: In magic ring, ch 1 and pull tight, 5 sc in ring, pull ring closed. -5 sc-
2 - 9: Sc in each sc around. -5 sc-
Fasten off leaving a 4" tail.

Inserting Pipe Cleaner

Legs/Torso
Cut a 4" length of pipe cleaner. With pliers, bend each end over 1/8" and squeeze flush. Fold in half, squeezing the bend flat, and gently twist a few times.
Insert the end of your hook or a small knitting needle into leg and up to the head. This opens it up and makes it easier to insert the pipe cleaner. Carefully insert the end with two ends into the bottom of the leg and push up into the head. It helps to twist the pipe cleaner as you push. You may also find it helpful to use the pliers to push the pipe cleaner in at the last bit. Make sure the piep cleaner is all the way in.
Repeat for second leg.

Arms
Cut a 2 3/4" length of pipe cleaner. Insert from side to side through round 12 (2nd round of torso). With pliers, bend each end over 1/8" and squeeze flush. Fold each end over 1/2" and squeeze the bend flat. Gently twist arms onto pipe cleaner.

Finishing

Run a gathering stitch through the front loop of each stitch around and pull tight. Insert needle into the center and run the needle up the leg and pull. This rounds the ends of the legs. Weave in end and finish off. With flat nose pliers, gently bend the end of the leg to form the foot.
Repeat for second leg
For arms, using a ladder stitch, sew them to the body, taking care to keep the arms symetrical. Weave in ends and finish off.

For Hair:

Cut four 6" lengths of yarn. Holding 2 lengths together, tie them in an overhand knot over the center of the other 2 lengths, and pull tight. Position on the doll's head and glue, or stitch, in place. Trim ends.

Mini Grannies in a Row

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Do you have lots of small balls of yarn? This is a great project to use them up in a pretty way! The mini granny squares only take about 60" for each one. And you will need lots of squares. You can make them all at once, or over a period of time. They look pretty stored in mason jars.

This is easily adjusted for different sizes. The only really difficult part is figuring out how many mini granny squares you are going to need. My blanket is designed for 18" dolls and measures about 19 1/2" x 12". It uses 98 squares.

Mini Grannies in a Row

Written pattern copyright Kimberly Saunders 2014

Please do not reprint or repost this pattern, but please do link to this page to share with others.

Do not sell or reproduce this written pattern. If you sell anything made from this pattern, please give credit to me for the design 

and include a link to either the free pattern or my blog. Thank you!

Mini Granny Squares

Ch 3 and join into ring, or use magic circle.
Ch 2, (3dc, ch 1) 4 times. Join to first dc with a sl st, ignore ch 2. Finish off.
Weave the yarn in well.
If using magic circle weave the beginning yarn back around the circle at least once and pull tight.


Border

sc dec : yo pull up loop in next ch 1 space, yo, pull up loop in ch 1 space on next square

Join with a sc into a ch 1 space in the first square. Ch 1, sc in the same space *sc in next 3 dc, sc dec* repeat until last square is attached. {sc in next 3 dc,, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch 1 space} 2 times. Repeat * to * until back to first square. Sc in next 3 dc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch 1 space, sc in next 3 dc, join to fist sc. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Joining Rows

Holding right sides together, slip stitch the back loops of both rows together to join, leaving front loops free.

Outside Border

Sc in the back loop around, with a sc in the spot where the two rows are joined. Join. Sc in same st as joining, ch 2, dc in same st. Skip 2 stitches, *(Sc, ch 2, dc) in next stitch, skip 2 stitches* Repeat around, skipping only 1 stitch at corners so it lays flat. Join, finish off, weave in ends.

For a different variation on this, check out my Mini Granny Waves Afghan.

Mini Granny Waves Afghan

Do you have lots of small balls of yarn? This is a great project to use them up in a pretty way! The mini granny squares only take about 60" for each one. And you will need lots of squares. You can make them all at once, or over a period of time. They look pretty stored in mason jars.

This is easily adjusted for different sizes. The only really difficult part is figuring out how many mini granny squares you are going to need.
My baby blanket is 17 squares across and 19 squares high, which comes out to approximately 27" x 36". And it used 323 squares.

Mini Granny Waves

Written pattern copyright Kimberly Saunders 2015

Please do not reprint or repost this pattern, but please do link to this page to share with others.

Do not sell or reproduce this written pattern. If you sell anything made from this pattern, please give credit to me for the design 

and include a link to either the free pattern or my blog. Thank you!

I like to use an I or J hook with worsted weight yarn for this. I want to try one in sport weight someday.
The size of your squares may vary slightly, because some worsted weight yarn is thicker or thinner than others. This shouldn't make a difference as long as all the bigger or smaller squares are spaced out.

Mini Granny Squares

Ch 3 and join into ring, or use magic circle.
Ch 2, (3dc, ch 1) 4 times. Join to first dc with a sl st, ignore ch 2. Finish off.
Weave the yarn in well.
If using magic circle weave the beginning yarn back around the circle at least once and pull tight.



Joining Squares

sc dec : yo pull up loop in next ch 1 space, yo, pull up loop in ch 1 space on next square

Lay out 21 squares in the order you would like them.
Join with a sc into a ch 1 space in the first square, ch 1, sc, in the same space, *sc in the next 3 dc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in the next ch 1 space, sc in the next 3 dc, sc dec. * Repeat until you reach the last square of the row, {sc in the next 3 dc, (sc, ch 1 sc) in next ch 1 space} 2 times. Repeat * to * down the other side until you reach the first square. Sc in the next 3 dc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in the next ch 1 space, sc in the next 3 dc. Join to first sc, and finish off. Weave in ends well.

Joining Rows

Holding right sides together, and matching ch 1 spaces to sc dec, slip stitch the back loops of both rows together, leaving the front loop free.

Outside Border

Sc in the back loop around. On the sides, sc to st before sc dec, sc 3 together, sc to next st before sc dec, sc 3 together, and so on. On the ends, you will want to do a sc dec in the stitches where two rows are joined, sc in the ch 1 sp, sc dec in the stitches where the next two rows are joined. Sc in the back loop of all other stitches.

For a simpler and more straight forward design see my Mini Grannies in a Row Afghan.

Variegated Variegated Crochet Ripple Afghan

I have alot of variegated yarn. Some of it I bought myself and some has been passed down to me. I have some from my Grandma that I really like, but there isn't much of it. So I decided to do a scrap type afghan using just the variegated yarns and one solid to tie them together. And this is what I came up with. I really love how this is turning out!

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The pattern is super simple and the width and length are easily adjusted.  

Variegated Variegated Crochet Ripple Afghan

I (5.5mm) hook

Black and Vareigated Worsted Weight Yarn

Gauge- 1 ripple = 3 1/2"

example: 11 ripples = 38" wide 

 Notes: To change the size add or take away ripples. 

            For each ripple, chain 14.

            Gauge on this is only important in determining how wide your afghan will be.

3dc dec: (YO, insert hook in next st and pull up a loop, YO and pull through 2 loops) 3 times, YO, pull through all 4 loops left on hook.

This is the method I use to start my rows when I'm using a new color.

With black, ch 154. (11 ripples)

Row 1:  Ch 3, 2 dc in fourth ch from hook, dc in the next 3 chs, (3dc dec in the next 3 chs) twice, dc in the next 3 chs, 3 dc in the next ch. That completes your first ripple. 

For the rest of the ripples you will do: 3 dc in the next ch, dc in the next 3 chs, (3dc dec in the next 3 ch) twice, dc in the next 3 chs, 3 dc in the next ch. Finish off and turn.

Switch to variegated.

Row 2:  *3 dc in first st, dc in the next 3 sts, (3dc dec in the next 3 sts) twice, dc in the next 3 sts, 3 dc in the next st* Repeat to end. Finish off and turn.

Repeat row 2 alternating the black and variegated yarns until you reach your desired length.

I will share more pictures as I make progress. 

American Girl Simple Top

This simple top is quick and easy to work up. It's top down, one piece construction means only 2 ends to weave in. The pattern consists of alternating rows of sc and dc to give added texture. It's the American Girl version of my Journey Girl Simple Top

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American Girl Simple Top

Written pattern copyright Kimberly Saunders 2014

Please do not reprint or repost this pattern, but please do link to this page to share with others.

Do not sell or reproduce this written pattern. If you sell anything made from this pattern, please give credit to me for the design 

and include a link to either the free pattern or my blog. Thank you!

Supplies:

Worsted Weight Yarn 

Crochet hook size H (5mm)

4   3/8 -5/8" buttons for back closure

Gauge:   Working in pattern: 9 sts = 2" and 6 rows = 2"

Special Stitches:

Starting Double Crochet: SDC = Pull chain to almost as high as a dc, yo and pull up a loop in the first stitch, yo and pull through one loop, yo and pull through 2 loops. Click HERE for a photo tutorial.

Notes:

*The top is worked from the top down, turning after every row.

*Work all sc in row 1 in the back ridge of the loop for a more finished look at the neck edge.

*I do not chain 1 at the beginnings of the sc rows. If you would like to, you can.

*Start the dc rows with the SDC. If you would rather do a ch 3, or other method, at the beginning of rows 2, 4, 6 and 8 you can.

*Either side can be the right side, depending on your preference. For a striped shirt, I prefer the dc rows to be right side.

Top:

Ch 37 + 4 for button loop. 

Row 1:  Sc in back ridge of 5th ch from hook, and in the back ridge of each ch across. Turn. (37 sc)

Row 2: Dc in next 5 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 7 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 9 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 7 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 5 sts. Turn. (45 dc)

Row 3: Sc in next 6 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 9 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 11 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 9 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 6 sts. Turn. (53 sc)

Row 4: Dc in next 7 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 11 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 13 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 11 sts, dc in next 7 sts. Turn. (61 dc)

Row 5: Ch 4 for button loop and sc in each st across. Turn. (61 sc)

This next row will form the armholes.

Row 6: Dc in next 10 sts, skip 9 sts, dc in next 19 sts, skip 9 sts, dc in next 10 sts. Turn. (39 dc)

Row 7: Sc in each st across. Turn. (39 sc)

Row 8: Dc in each st across. Turn. (39 dc)

Row 9: Ch 4 for button loop and sc in each st across. Turn. (39 sc)

Row 10: Dc in each st across. Turn. (39 dc)

Row 11: Sc in each st across. Turn. (39 sc)

Row 12: Dc in each st across. Turn. (39 dc)

Row 13: Ch 4 for button loop and sc in each st across. Finish off.

Weave in ends and attach buttons to left back opposite of button loops.

American Girl Basic DC Short Sleeve Top

This top is very simple and quick to make  It's top down, seamless, one piece construction means less ends to weave in. It's an adjusted version of my Journey Girl Basic DC Short Sleeve Top.

The following 18" dolls have tried this top on and approve: American Girl, Gotz, Our Generation, Madame Alexander, and Springfield.  It also fits a bit big, but wearable, on Journey Girl.

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American Girl Basic DC Short Sleeve Top

Written pattern copyright Kimberly Saunders 2014

Please do not reprint or repost this pattern, but please do link to this page to share with others.

Do not sell or reproduce this written pattern. If you sell anything made from this pattern, please give credit to me for the design 

and include a link to either the free pattern or my blog. Thank you!

Supplies:

Worsted Weight Yarn 

Crochet hook size H (5mm)

3   3/8 -5/8" buttons for back closure

Gauge: 9dc = 2" and 5 rows = 2"

Special Stitches:

Starting Double Crochet: SDC = Pull chain to almost as high as a dc, yo and pull up a loop in the first stitch, yo and pull through one loop,  yo and pull through 2 loops.  

Click HERE for a photo tutorial.

Notes:

*The top is worked from the top down, turning after every row.

*Work all dc in row 1 in the back ridge of the loop for a more finished look at the neck edge.

*The first row is the right side.

*I don't put a starting dc at the beginning in the pattern for ease in reading and keeping track of the number of stitches.

*I use the Starting Double Crochet at the beginning of row. If you prefer another method, substitute it.

Top

Chain 37 + 4 for the button loop.

Row 1: Working in the back ridge of chain, dc in the 5th ch from hook and in next 4 chs, *3 dc in next ch, dc in next 7 chs, 3 dc in next ch, dc in next 9 chs, 3 dc in next ch, dc in next 7 chs , 3 dc in next ch, dc in next 5. Turn. (45 dc)

Row 2: Dc in next 6 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 9 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 11 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 9 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 6 sts. Turn. (53 dc)

Row 3: Dc in next 7 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 11 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 13 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 11 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 7 sts. Turn. (61 dc)

This next row will form the armholes.

Row 4: Dc in next 10 sts, skip 11 sts, dc in next 19 sts, skip 11 sts, dc in next 10 sts. Turn. (39 dc)

Row 5: Ch 4 for button loop, dc across. Turn. (39 dc)

Row 6-8: Dc across. Turn. (39 dc)

Row 9: Ch 4 for button loop, dc across. Turn. (39 dc)

At this point you can finish off or continue with row 10 for a bit of a lacy trim.

Row 10: With right side facing (sc, ch 1, dc) in every other st. Finish off.

Finishing:  Weave in ends. Attach buttons to left side, opposite of button loops.

American Girl Basic SC Short Sleeved Top

I thought it would be easy converting the Journey Girl Basic SC Short Sleeved Top into American Girl size. I kept trying different things and it was becoming not as simple. I had forgotten to take into account that not only is AG a bit bigger, but her body shape is different, too. When I realized that I needed to change the ratios and not just make it bigger, it wasn't long before I had this figured out. 

The following 18" dolls have tried this top on and approve: American Girl, Gotz, Our Generation, Madame Alexander, and Springfield.  It also fits a bit big, but wearable, on Journey Girl.

 Please add to your Ravelry Queue and Favorites

American Girl Basic SC Short Sleeved Top

Written pattern copyright Kimberly Saunders 2014

Please do not reprint or repost this pattern, but please do link to this page to share with others.

Do not sell or reproduce this written pattern. If you sell anything made from this pattern, please give credit to me for the design 

and include a link to either the free pattern or my blog. Thank you!

Supplies:

Worsted Weight Yarn 

Crochet hook size H (5mm)

4  3/8 -5/8" button for back closure

Gauge:  8.5 sc = 2" and 12 rows = 2"

Notes:

*The top is worked from the top down, turning after every row.

*Work all sc in row 1 in the back ridge of the loop for a more finished look at the neck edge.

*The first row is the right side.

*I do not chain 1 at the beginnings of the rows. If you would like to, you can.

*For ease in putting on and taking off, there are four buttons down the back. It is possible to put on with only 2 buttons, but it takes a bit of wiggling. If you decide to do 2 buttons, join at the end of Row 12. Omit the remaining 2 button loops, continue turning and joining at the end of each row. There will be an extra stitch at the end of Row 21, just skip it, and join to first sc in row.

Top

Chain 37 + 4 for the button loop.

Row 1: Working in the back ridge of beginning chain, sc in the 5th ch from hook and in the next 36 chs. Turn. (37 sc)

Row 2: Sc in next 5 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 7 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 9 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 7 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts. Turn. (45 sc)

Row 3: Sc in next 6 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 9 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 11 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 9 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 6 sts. Turn. (53 sc)

Row 4: Sc in each st across. Turn. (53 sc)

Row 5: Sc in next 7 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 11 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 13 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 11 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 7 sts. Turn. (61 sc)

Row 6: Sc in next 8 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 13 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 15 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 13 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 8 sts. Turn. (69 sc)

Row 7: Ch 4 for button loop, Sc in each st across. Turn. (69 sc)

Row 8: Sc in next 9 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 15 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 17 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 15 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 9 sts. Turn. (77 sc)

Row 9: Sc in next 10 sts, *(sc, ch 1, dc) in next st, skip next st* repeat 9 times, sc in next 20 sts, *(sc, ch 1, dc) in next st, skip next st* repeat 9 times, sc in next 11 sts. Turn. 

This next row forms the armholes:

Row 10: Sc in next 11 scs, ch 1, skip the next 9 ch 1 spaces, sc in next 21 scs, ch 1, skip the next 9 ch 1 spaces, sc in next 11 scs. (43 sc and 2 ch)

Row 11: Sc in each st and ch across. Turn. (45 sc)

Row 12: Sc in each st across. Turn. (45 sc) 

Row 13: Ch 4 for button loop, Sc in each st across. Turn. (45 sc)

Row 14-18: Sc in each st across. Turn. (45 sc)

Row 19: Ch 4 for button loop, Sc in each st across. Turn. (45 sc)

Row 20: Sc in each st across. Turn. (45 sc) 

Row 21: *(Sc, ch 1, dc) in next st, skip next st* repeat across row, sc in last stitch. Finish off.

Finishing:  Weave in ends. Attach buttons to the left side opposite of the button loops.

Nessa's Sweater

 My little one decided to join us early. She was born at 29 1/2 weeks. I wanted to make her some sweaters but was unable to find a pattern that I liked. So I decided to design one for her. Then a few weeks ago I wondered how many sizes I could make using the same stitch counts and  there are quite a few. This pattern will make sweaters ranging from a small preemie to 12 months.

Today marks the one year anniversary of her coming home and I'm celebrating by offering this pattern for free! This sweater has a very simple construction. It is top down and seamless, which is my favorite part!

Please add to your Ravelry Queue and Favorites!

Nessa's Sweater

Written pattern copyright Kimberly Saunders 2014

Please do not reprint or repost this pattern, but please do link to this page to share with others.

Do not sell or reproduce this written pattern. If you sell anything made from this pattern, please give credit to me for the design 

and include a link to either the free pattern or my blog. Thank you!

Supplies:

Sport Weight or Worsted Weight Yarn 

Crochet hook sizes G through K

Buttons Optional: Find some that fit through the spaces between dc.

Sizes and Gauges:

Small preemie: 

 12-13" Chest finished measurement 

 Hook G 

 Sport Weight Yarn

 10 dc and  6 rows = 2" x 2"

Preemie: 

 14" Chest finished measurement

 Hook H

 Sport Weight Yarn

 8.5 dc and 5.5 rows = 2" x 2"

Small Newborn: 

 15" Chest finished measurement

 Hook I                         

 Sport Weight Yarn

 8 dc and 5 rows = 2"x 2"

Newborn:

 16" Chest finished measurement

 Hook H

 Worsted Weight Yarn

 4.5 dc and 4.5 rows = 2" x 2"

3 Month:

 18" Chest finished measurement

 Hook I

 Worsted Weight Yarn

 7 dc and 4.25 rows = 2" x 2"

6 Month:

 19" Chest finished measurement

 Hook J

 Worsted Weight Yarn

 6.5 dc and just over 4 rows = 2" x 2"

12 Month:

 20" Chest finished measurement

 Hook K

 Worsted Weight Yarn

 6 dc and 4 rows = 2" x 2"

Special Stitches:

V Stitch: (dc, ch 1, dc) in same stitch

Cluster: 3 dc in same stitch

Picot: Ch 2, slip stitch in sc just made

Notes:

*The sweater is worked from the top down, turning after every row.

*The first row is the right side.

*All rows begin with a dc. For ease in counting stitches, starting on row 2, I did not include the beginning dc part in the instructions. You can start the rows with whichever method you like best, I use my Starting DC.  

*When working the sleeves, I turn after every row to keep the look the same as the lower half of the sweater which alternates right and wrong side rows. And to keep the seam straight.

*If desired, you can elimate the picots and just sc around the bottom of sweater and sleeves.

Yoke

Chain 41 

Row 1: Ch 2, dc in 4th ch from hook and in next 3 chs, V Stitch in next ch, dc  in next 8 chs, V Stitch in next ch, dc in next 11 chs, V Stitch in next ch, dc in next 8 chs, V Stitch in next ch, dc in next 5 chs. Turn. (45 dc)

Row 2: Dc in next 6 sts, V Stitch in ch 1 space, dc in next 10 sts, V Stitch in ch 1 space, dc in next 13 sts, V Stitch in ch 1 space, dc in next 10 sts, V Stitch in ch 1 space, dc in next 6 sts. Turn. (53 dc)

Row 3: Dc in next 7 sts, V Stitch in ch 1 space, dc in next 12 sts, V Stitch in ch 1 space, dc in next 15 sts, V Stitch in ch 1 space, dc in next 12 sts, V Stitch in ch 1 space, dc in next 7 sts. Turn. (61 dc)

Row 4: Dc in next 8 sts, V Stitch in ch 1 space, dc in next 14 sts, V Stitch in ch 1 space, dc in next 17 sts, V Stitch in ch 1 space, dc in next 14 sts, V Stitch in ch 1 space, dc in next 8 sts. Turn. (69 dc)

Row 5: Dc in next 9 sts, V Stitch in ch 1 space, dc in next 16 sts, V Stitch in ch 1 space, dc in next 19 sts, V Stitch in ch 1 space, dc in next 16 sts, V Stitch in ch 1 space, dc in next 9 sts. Turn. (77 dc)

Row 6: Dc in next 10 sts, V Stitch in ch 1 space, dc in next 18 sts, V Stitch in ch 1 space, dc in next 21 sts, V Stitch in ch 1 space, dc in next 18 sts, V Stitch in ch 1 space, dc in next 10 sts. Turn. (85 dc)

This next row will form the armholes.

Row 7: Dc in next 11 sts and the ch 1 space, ch 3, skip 20 dc, dc in next ch 1 space and next 23 sts, dc in ch 1 space, ch 3, skip 20 dc, dc in ch 1 space and the next 11 sts. (49 dc)

Row 8: Dc, * skip next st, Cluster, skip next st, V Stitch* repeat to end, dc in last st.Turn.

Row 9: Dc, *Cluster in ch 1 space, V Stich in middle st of Cluster* repeat to end, dc in last st. Turn.

Row 10- 19: Repeat row 9, ending on a right side row.

Edging. Do not turn. With right side facing, sc evenly up the side, around the neck, down the other side, with 2 to 3 sc in the corners. (I had about 28 sc per side.) Along the bottom: sc to center of Cluster, Picot, *sc in next 3 sts, Picot,* repeat across bottom.sc in last 2 sts. Join, finish off.

Sleeves:

Row 1: With right side up and neck towards you, working in the same pattern as the lower half of the sweater, and starting with a Cluster, evenly space 5 Clusters and 5 V Stitches around armhole. Join to first st, Turn.

Note: Hope these pictures explain better than I could find words. I put my first Cluster in the space shown below, then the V Stitch in the ch 1 space, then skipped 2 sts between. 

Row 2: Slip stitch to center of V Stitch, *Cluster in V Stitch, V Stich in middle st of Cluster* repeat around. Join to first st. Turn.

Row 3-12: Repeat row 2. 

Edging. Do not turn. With right side facing, sc to center of Cluster, Picot, *sc in next 3 sts, Picot,* repeat around. sc in last st. Join, finish off.

Finishing:

Weave in all ends. Add a button or 3 if desired. Enjoy!